Photos courtesy of Christopher Davies unless noted.
As of January 2021, there are some fresh new faces in the Bordeaux family of approved grape varieties. Even a mere decade ago, the idea of permitting new grapes into the famed blends of Bordeaux would have been unthinkable. But this step will ensure that future Bordeaux wines continue showing the structure the world knows them for.
MEET THE CLASSICS
Traditionally, Bordeaux winemakers have relied on these grapes to create their magical blends for centuries.
- REDS GRAPES: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Carménère.
- WHITE GRAPES: Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Colombard, Ugni Blanc, Muscadelle, Sauvignon Gris, Merlot Blanc, and Mauzac.
Each grape variety brings a unique structural element to the mix. Winemakers can tinker with the blend to adjust the wine color, tannins, acid, aroma, concentration, and longevity.
THE NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK
As of 2021, Bordeaux winemakers have more grape varieties to play with. After years of research, considering fifty possible grape varieties, the INAO (Institut National des Appellations d'Origine) narrowed the selection to just six. These newbies can occupy up to 5% of vineyard space and makeup 10% of the final blend. You won't see their names on labels, but they'll quietly add structure and flair to Bordeaux's blends.
The efforts to find new grapes for Bordeaux kicked into high gear in 2018. Producers noticed that due to Climate Change, traditional grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot were losing the structural elements vital to the wine's body and texture. In 2018, growers increased the Petit Verdot plantings due to its ability to thrive in warmer growing areas. The idea spread, and the INAO's decision to approve new grapes was put into motion. To understand the new grapes and see how the producers of Bordeaux will use these new varietals, I have listed a brief description of the new grapes below.
REDS GRAPES:
-
- Arinarnoa—Introduced in 1956, this crossing of Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon is a medium-cluster-density grape, which helps prevent fungal issues. It has heavy aromatics, acidity, and dark-colored tannins. For the last 75 years, it has grown primarily in France's Languedoc and Provence areas, influencing many Vin de Pays and IGP wines.
-
- Castets—This grape is a crossbreeding between Gros Cabernet and Camaraou noir. Small plantings around France and Slovakia have been seen since the 1970s. Castets is most well-known for its resistance to mildew, heavy tannins, and color, which is most certainly why the INAO approved this grape.
-
- Marselan is a widely known and well-recognized grape. It is grown in multiple regions of France and other countries like Spain, Uruguay, Argentina, and even China. The INAO created it in 1961 as a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. Marselan was primarily used to produce Vin de Pays and IGP wines until 2011, when it was added to the AOC of Côte du Rhône wines. This varietal will influence aromas, soft tannins, acidity, and color.
-
- Touriga Nacional – The superstar grape of the fine wines of Portugal, this Cabernet Sauvignon doppelganger is famous for its incredible tannin structure and outstanding ability. Expect it to shine the blends of Bordeaux.
WHITE GRAPES:
-
- Albariño - Native to Spain, Albariño is the key grape grown in the region of Rias Baixas, Rueda, and neighboring Vinho Verde in Portugal. Albariño is a highly aromatic, high-acid grape that creates citrus notes throughout the wine. It's easy to see the addition of this grape to the excellent white wines of Bordeaux.
-
- Liliorila—A crossing between Chardonnay and Baroque, Liliorila is an early-ripening varietal that can be fuller-bodied in white wines. Commonly known to be infected with Botrytis (the fungus responsible for fine wines of Sauternes), this grape will do well in desert-style wines throughout the Bordeaux area.
Several prominent wine producers are using the newly approved grape varietals in their wine blends.
Chateau La Tour Carnet- Grand Cru Classe- Medoc
https://www.chateau-latourcarnet.fr/
Clos Puy Arnaud-Grand Vin de Bordeaux, Saint Emilion
https://www.clospuyarnaud.com/
Wine production has existed longer than any civilization on the planet, and wine growers have always had to adjust and monitor the structures of their wines. With these new grapes, Bordeaux is gearing up for climate change and whatever else may come its way. The wine world changes constantly, but Bordeaux's ability to adapt ensures we will raise glasses to its legacy for years to come. Cheers!
